Key Takeaways
There’s a lot more to fitting van racking solutions than screwing in some shelves. What separates a good strong build from a frustrating failure is the level of planning, quality materials and secure installation. Here’s what matters most:
Measure everything three times. Eighty per cent of mistakes are due to poor van interiors.
Y12mm exterior plywood is strong enough and easy to work with.
Bolt your racking down onto the van’s structural ribs— not lining off / wall lining.
It will probably take you 20 to 30 hours to fabricate a DIY racking system for a mid-size van.
Material costs are usually £150 to £350 and upwards, obviously depending on quality and features.
This guide takes you through eight pro steps to building a custom van racking system that’s efficient, safe and built to last.
Why should you make your van racking?
DIY van racking offers more than just saving cash. Professionally-installed versions can tip over £2,000, but a decent DIY build typically comes in at less than half that — somewhere between £150 and £350. But the real payoff comes from designing storage that fits your particular workflow, tools and trade.
After fabricating five racking systems for my own work vans, I know from experience how much time you can save with a custom arrangement. One build had angled drill stakeholders, slots for screwdrivers and the like, and pull-out drawers that saved 15 minutes of time each day. That’s over 60 hours a year not wasted.
Not every one, however, is cut out for DIY racking. Plywood systems aren’t crash-tested certified like certain commercial metal racking systems are. If you transport unusually heavy tools, or haul a lot of stuff through rugged conditions, you might still be better off with a professional solution.
Step 1: Carefully Plan Your Layout
It’s the planning that’s key to a good build. Don’t take this step, or treat it lightly, and you’ll waste materials and build shelves that don’t fit right — or even are unsafe.
Begin by measuring the interior of your van. Take measurements at three levels: floor, midway up and near the ceiling. Van walls generally slant inward, so don’t just assume one measurement works anywhere. Now measure the bulkhead to the back doors in a few places. Pay attention to the positions where the wheel arches should be, door apertures, if used windows etc and internal ribs or mounting points.
Next, assess your storage needs. Strip out your van, tool and equipment inventory. Note what you use every day, what you use occasionally and what might require special compartments because of shape or weight. For instance, track saws, very long levels or pipe carriers may need modified sections.
Ask yourself:
What do I need to get to at once?”
Do I need sheet goods or long material capabilities?
Is there any liquid or paint that needs to be ventilated?
Will I acquire any more tools in the next year?
Sketch a rough layout after you realize your measurements and needs. You don’t even need design software — graph paper is just fine. Sketch the van to scale, and mark where you’ll build shelving units, compartments and drawers.
Step 2: Select the Materials and Tools
What Matters When Selecting Van Racks Materials make a difference in van racking. Cheap materials can cause wear and tear prematurely, they can make for a weak structure or even be unsafe.
Start with 12mm exterior ply as the default material. It’s sturdy enough to withstand loaded shelves but light enough to manipulate and cut with ease. For things likely to get heavy use — for example, a false floor or something you plan to stand on — opt for 18mm plywood for extra toughness. If you only want dividers, or non-structural panels then 6mm or 9mm ply will save enough weight.
Avoid MDF completely. It is moisture absorbing, swelling and disintegrating from van vibration. Even a tiny buildup of condensation can lead to irreparable damage.
To construct your racking, you’ll need a good set of tools. You can’t make accurate cuts without a circular saw (or track saw). Traces are then cut using a jigsaw for curves and wheel arches. Cordless drills and impact drivers make quick work of the build and assembly. Clamps, measuring devices, squares and safety gear such as gloves, goggles and hearing protection will be necessary as well.
Don’t overlook your fasteners and adhesives. Construction adhesive Sikaflex or equivalent in combination with screws. It is also necessary to have self-drilling screws (min 5.5mmx55mm that you will need for mounting racking in the metal van structure). For wood-to-wood connections, a variety of lengths of woodscrews can also help with building.
Step 3: Construct in Modules
And: Don’t attempt to construct one giant racking system in the van. Much easier to construct modular components in your workshop or garage and then install them one by one.
Cut your plywood accurately. Use a guide or straight edge to ensure your cuts are clean and square. As you remove them, label each one with masking tape so that you don’t get them mixed up. For when the part is an awkward shape, such as wheel-arches or a curve wall, then you’ll need cardboard templates. Better to make a mistake with cardboard than ruin expensive plywood on a bad cut.
Construct shelving using adhesive and screws. Brush glue along the joining edges and screw everything together with the correct intervals (generally 200–250mm between screws). REMEMBER TO PRE-DRILL SCREW HOLES NEAR THE ENDS TO AVOID SPLITS. Make sure the structure is square by measuring diagonals from corner to corner — if the two measurements are the same, you’re good.
You could also use timber battens (18mm x 45mm is ideal) to further strengthen connections.
For drawers, you can create them now. You could use 12mm ply for the sides as well, but you might lose a little weight using 6mm there and on the bottom. Add runners or timber rails with stops to prevent drawers from opening when the vehicle is moved. Base drawer heights on the tools or containers you will be storing.
Step 4: Install Securely
It is the most crucial step for safety. Cheaply made racking can turn into a lethal projectile in an accident.
Never attach racking to the van wall lining; this has no structural strength. Find the metal ribs or frame sections of a van with a stud finder or measurements taken earlier. Screw fix onto these added metal points, screws can be 300-400mm apart -self drilling screws are recommended.
For floor models, you have the option to go full-force with through-bolts, using washers and backing plates for added meat. Alternatively, you might use rivet nuts or chemical anchors in thin metal when traditional bolts don’t have enough material to grip.
Consider diagonal braces to keep the unit from shifting. With tall bookcases or shelf stations, you’ll want to brace the entire unit diagonally down from top to bottom. You can also cross-brace horizontally between parallel units to keep them from swaying side to side. And think about tying the two sides of you van together via a back cross-brace for additional stiffness.
Take this seriously — your safety, and other people’s safety, depends on it.
Step 5: Racking Seal and Protection
The hard part of building your structure may have finished but completing the build properly is what will make it last for years.
Seal all exposed edges with a waterproof wood sealer or edge tape. Finish with two or more coats of exterior-grade paint, wood treatment or polyurethane varnish on all surfaces. This will help the van to not be damaged by moisture from the condensation that develops in vans organically.
Just ensure surfaces that get a lot of wear — shelf tops, for example — have been rubberized or coated with heavy-duty varnish.
Light-colored finishes (white or light grey, for example) help make the interior of your van more visible, especially in these dark winter months. It simplifies the search for tools and eliminates the need for additional lighting.
Step 6: Add Retention Systems
After setup, keep your tools in one place with racking. Falling from a loose job can cause injury, and lost tools is always lost time.
Attach front lips to shelves — 25-40mm high is usually enough. Use bungee nets or elastic cords to secure things in the open compartments. To be annexe inside Ironmongery should fit pivot bars or latches as appropriate. For these sort of loads, you can use angled shelves (5 to 10 degrees backward) and allow gravity to both keep tools where they belong without requiring any mechanical fasteners.
Step 7: Accessorize Your Workspace
Little things contribute a lot to usability every day. Think about placing some strip LED lighting that are able to be recharged from your power bank or USB. This saves having to change your van’s electrics.
Other handy accessories are pegboards, magnetic strips for tools with steel parts, hooks for cables or hoses, document holders for job sheets and a mounted fire extinguisher.
These add-ons will help you make your van into a mobile workshop, not just a rolling toolbox.
Step 8: Take Care of Your Racking System
A good build will last for years — if you take care of it.
Check your racking monthly. Tighten any loose screws and look for cracks, flexing or water damage. Twice a year remove your tools and inspect the entire system. Especially look at mount areas, high-wear surfaces and any rusty-looking fasteners.
For vans that are stationary for long periods, consider moisture absorbers to help take care of condensation. Ventilation also helps to protect your tools and the racking from becoming damaged over time.
Final Thoughts
Making your own van racking is one of the most satisfying improvements you can make as a tradesperson or van owner. With 20 to 40 hours of work and a few hundred pounds in materials, you can build a workspace to fit your tools, your jobs and your flow.
The devil is in the details: accurate measurements, good materials, solid mounting and smart design. Whether you’re a woodworker, plumber, electrician or homeowner who just enjoys organization and high-quality storage products, an innovative racking system can keep all your tools and accessories close at hand.
